eyes on the beach

05/03/11 09:44

Our friend Agnieszka is visiting from Philadelphia for the annual ARVO meeting (Association for Research in Vision and Ophthalmology), and Sunday after her sessions we took a walk along the beach (at one point passing the head of ophthalmology at the University of Pennsylvania). Our timing was good, as it was around five and the cruise ships were starting to leave.

But the first vessel was a submarine. I had never seen a submarine moving before. A few crewmen stood atop the squat round tower as it headed out to sea.

Royal Caribbean's Allure of the Seas came next. It was the antithesis of a submarine, an enormous white exhibitionist. Passengers lined the railing of the top deck, getting postcard views of Fort Lauderdale beach and inspiring thoughts on the variety of human destinies, some people pampered on cruise ships, others assigned to submarines. Though once at sea, with its back to the beach, the vessel looked like a floating (if immaculate) factory.

We got in the car and drove north on A1A, passing crowded, pulsating bars. We wanted a quiet drink with a view. At Casablanca Cafe we were told by a gruff, unwelcoming hostess that the outside tables were only for food. We moved to the bar, and found a small table halfway between the bar and the restaurant. We borrowed a chair from the people behind us and got ready to sit.

"That table is for two people only," the hostess barked at us. For a beachside establishment, Casablanca Cafe seemed to have a lot of rules. Eventually the hostess relented, and we ordered drinks. While they were being made, her partner arrived and told us our table was in the "food only" section. We cancelled our drink order and headed off to The Ritz-Carlton.

We found a table on the terrace. A charming young woman in white jacket, black skirt and glasses took our orders. She returned shortly with three specialty cocktails and a little tray of nuts, chips and miniature pretzels. We toasted our success in finding a quiet, unabrasive place. The Goodyear blimp flew overhead and, a few minutes later, a gentleman from the National Eye Institute rode by in a rickshaw.

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