The reservation form had a slot for “special occasion” so I wrote “birthday.” At the end of the dinner the manager walked over and asked whose birthday it was. I said it was mine and asked where he was from.

“France,” he said.

“Whereabouts?” I asked.

“The Basque country,” he said.

I told him I’d spent a year in Aix-en-Provence. He complimented me on my French. A short while later I saw him talking to a colleague, who soon appeared at our table, also speaking French, and bearing four glasses and four bottles of spirits. He was from Auvergne. I told him of the wedding we once attended in Yssingeaux. He said he knew the small town. Then he explained what he was pouring: sake, Sancerre, tokay, and port. A “tour du monde” he called it, in four glasses.

We chatted some more, and then sipped our drinks, enjoying the most spontaneously festive moment we’d experienced in over a year.   

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