The postscript to my National Geographic Traveler ordeal is that the story that finally appeared was missing a number of things that were contained in the original story, including the description of my walk through the old Jewish quarter and my mention of the then soon-to-open Jewish museum.
Within days of the issue's appearance, the magazine received three letters from subscribers all complaining that I had written about Warsaw without once mentioning its Jewish past. The editor in the letters department asked me if I had any suggestions on how the magazine should respond.
Yes, I emailed back, I certainly did.
(I'm off on a short fact-finding cruise; will be back here on the 12th.)