why we travel

01/06/14 07:22

In many cities, a rainy day is a good day to go to a museum, but not – I thought as we headed south on I-95 Saturday morning – in Miami. Most of what I’d read and heard about the new Perez Art Museum Miami suggested that the collection was mediocre while the building and the setting, not to mention the restaurant, were spectacular. What was outside the museum, I got the impression, was more interesting than what was inside.

We parked under the museum and took a staircase to the vast verandah with its not-yet-lush hanging gardens. The view of downtown was complemented by a row of mythical animal heads which none of the stories I’d read had mentioned. After some searching, we found the entrance – a set of large, nondescript wooden doors – and headed into the chill. (The air-conditioner is obviously set to combat the effects of the sun.)

The exhibits were interesting, and not just the large space devoted to Ai Weiwei’s work (which included video screens of his photographs, many of them of his cats). And the views were as stunning as predicted, even on a sunless day. Every window seemed to frame a great perspective: the Arsht Center, the downtown condos, the cruise ships all in a row in the port. The hanging boats – this is a museum big on suspension – was my favorite exhibit, along with Weiwei’s bicycle tires (all made by the Shanghai company “Forever.”)

In fact, the only disappointment was the restaurant. We entered through the gift shop and walked past a refrigerated case before reaching the receptionist, who told us it would be a 30 minute wait. We examined what looked like an upscale company cafeteria and headed outside. A few people ate there, with views of the seemingly immoveable cruise ships. We decided that it would be a fine place to eat al fresco on a sunny day, and headed to the car for lunch in South Beach.

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