While Hania shopped, I sat on a bench reading Italian Ways by Tim Parks. At one point an elderly French woman deposited her husband at the other end. As soon as she was gone, I asked the man where he was from.

“Paris,” he said, giving the answer that 95% of French people give. Apparently no one outside the capital ever goes abroad.

“City or suburbs?” I asked.

“City,” he said. “17th arrondissement.” Quiet days in Clichy, I would have said, if I knew my arrondissements.

“We considered moving to Florida,” he said, then shook his head dismissively. “If you’ve lived in Paris,” he explained, “you can’t live anywhere else.”

About five minutes after he left a younger man emerged from Hugo Boss and walked in my direction.

“I noticed the book you’re reading,” he said. "I’m Italian. I was born in Sicily.”

I told him about my story on Palermo that’s in The Best American Travel Writing 2012. He wrote the title of the anthology down on his smartphone, right after he typed in the title of Parks’ book. We talked about the glories of his homeland: the people, the food, the art, the engineering. We formed a small Italian adoration society. His English was excellent.

“I live in Toronto,” he said. “I could never live in Italy.”

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