grove and gables

02/26/13 07:28

When we moved to South Florida in 1989 there were three places you visited in Miami: Miami Beach, Coconut Grove and Coral Gables. Now there's Mary Brickell Village, the Design District, Wynwood, Midtown, downtown, as the city resuscitates its once moribund sections.

This is not to say the old standbys have become stagnant. Saturday afternoon in Coconut Grove we climbed to the second floor of CocoWalk and found First Flight Out, a new store filled with old Pan Am memorabilia, including a small re-creation of a First Class cabin. Some of the items were for sale - like bags - but others sat in glass cases as if at a museum. I coveted a number of the small travel posters hanging on the wall, and was told that more are coming that will be for sale. So I'll need to return to the Grove again soon.

Early evening we drove over to Coral Gables and stopped for dinner at a four-day old restaurant on Ponce de Leon called Bulla Gastrobar. We sat at the bar and ordered tapas: pimientos de padron (two of them hot, my first and Hania's last), Spanish salami, cumin marinated grilled pork drizzled with mojo verde and Greek yogurt, and potato chips and poached egg topped with potato foam and Serrano ham. A man three seats away sipped his wine while reading a book.

We headed across Miracle Mile to Aragon and Books & Books. A poet was reading her poems in the main room, while in the courtyard a Japanese woman was singing jazz. At the bar we spotted the man who had been reading at Bulla. He told us that the restaurant was owned by the son of a man who had made a fortune in Spain by delivering pizza. Angel was also from Spain; I figured he was European because of the sweater tied around his neck. We chatted for a bit, while the singer sang The Girl from Ipanema. I stood looking at the courtyard, filled with people eating and drinking on a February evening, and through the windows to the framed photos of authors on the cafe wall. There may be more beautiful bookstores in the United States, I thought, but not many. And the more beautiful are surely less convivial. We left to the strains of Autumn Leaves.

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