entering france

07/26/12 09:02

On the subject of "bad trips, good stories," a friend writes:

It is 1985, on our first trip to Europe. Daniel and I looping through the back roads of the Swiss Alps in our rental car en route to Paris. At a remote border crossing in pouring rain, a surly guard orders Daniel to his hut and says we can't come into France because we have no visas. (What we don't yet know is there has been a bombing at the Tati department store in Paris during our week in Switzerland.) Daniel, in a panic, motions me to come to the hut and we manage to convince the guard we aren't terrorists.

Back at car - keys locked inside. Now, il pleut comme une vache qui pisse. As guard laughs his ass off, we break the passenger window with a big rock. A kind Canadian couple gives us a piece of dry cleaner plastic and we wend our way down to the only Ford dealership in SE France in an ugly village we come to call "The Town Without Women." The owner of the only auberge scowls at me like I am the source of all her unhappiness. We go to sleep on lumpy beds under a leaky roof, visions of a huge repair bill in our heads because you know how the French are...

Morning breaks with sun and a smile from the patronesse when I work up the courage to compliment her coffee in bad French. At the dealership, we find they have vacuumed up our baquette crumbs, cleaned out the wine bottles and washed the car. The bill is ridiculously small. The garage owner sends us on our way with a hearty "bonne journee" and fresh croissants.

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