city of art

12/06/10 10:29

Saturday afternoon we parked on a side street in Wynwood where a man was spray-painting his jumble-blocked signature onto a wall. We headed up N. Miami Ave., passing galleries and gallery-goers, until we came to Art Miami. Inside, we bought a glass of wine and a cappuccino from a young man from Bologna.

"Do you despise me for drinking cappuccino in the afternoon?" Hania asked him.

There were, to paraphrase Oscar Wilde, so many people it was hard to see the paintings and so many paintings it was hard to see the people. There were also videos, and videos within paintings. One showed a woman swimming back and forth in a necessarily confined space. "Somebody should let her out," I said.

Farther along, a gallery owner sidled up to me and asked: "Are you looking to buy?"

Flattered that she thought me financially capable, I told her the truth. "I'm a writer," I said. "I have no money." This seemed to satisfy her.

The sculpture of a long-necked, multi-legged woman reclined on a sofa. A mass of fire hoses hung on a wall. Another video-painting showed a man watching TV in what looked to be a national park. The biggest crowd gathered in front of blown-up black-and-white photographs of bygone celebrities.

We left a little before 7 and headed over to Gigi, where there was a half an hour wait. We got seats at the counter overlooking the kitchen, and watched with interest as our lamb over risotto and red curry seafood were deftly prepared. Dessert - flourless chocolate cake - arrived unobserved, but just as delicious.

We drove a few blocks north to the Design District, and stopped in front of a velvet rope.

"Do you have to be on the list to get in?" I asked a young woman holding some papers.

"Yes," she said.

"Can you put us on the list?" I asked. She laughed, but didn't take my name.

We popped into a gallery, which was a disappointment after Art Miami. So we got back in the car and drove across the causeway to South Beach. We walked past a building where cutouts of commandos looked down from the balconies, through the park tonight dedicated to the city of Glasgow, and up to more velvet ropes in front of the W. We walked a few steps down, entered Mr. Chow, and then took a right into the lobby.

There were more velvet ropes in front of the Delano. "We just want to see the lobby," I said innocently to the border guard, and she unlatched the rope and let us through. I had been in the lobby countless times, though this was the first time I saw people sitting and eating at the "kitchen" table.

We capped off the night with a mojito at the Raleigh. The patio was packed with people eating under sea grape trees, so we sat in the beautiful boxcar bar. The man sitting next to me was an art dealer from London. He seemed quite interesting but it was hard to hear him through the blaring music. Why not, in an Art Deco bar, play Art Deco music? The drink cost as much as the lamb.

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By • Galleries: hometown

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