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the perfect pie

09/20/10 09:45

Since 2002, Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza has had the best pizza in Broward County. Now it has the perfect pizza.

We stopped by Saturday after our weekly visit to nearby Marando Farms. (Chickens, pigs, and rabbits in the middle of Fort Lauderdale!) The sign out front advertised something new called Grandma's Pizza. Inside, I ordered my usual small regular pie, but asked - just out of curiosity - about Grandma's Pizza. It has no cheese, the young woman at the cash register said, except for a sprinkling of parmesan. "So it's all sauce?" I asked excitedly. "Yes," the woman said, "except for the parmesan and some olive oil."

The sauce was what sold me on Anthony's pizza the first time I tasted it. Anyone can pile cheese on a pizza - most people do - but to lather it with a delicious sauce is to make it shine. Every subsequent Anthony's pizza I ate - and I ate a good number of them - made me think: I could do with less cheese and more sauce.

I changed my order. The pie that came out had a rustic oval shape and a rich ruby hue, with a modest dusting of grated parmesan. It was the best pizza I've eaten outside of Italy.

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