Yesterday I flew from Milan to Miami on an Alitalia plane that carried maybe 50 passengers. They were probably the most pleasurable 10 hours I've ever spent in the air. It was like flying first class, with room to stretch - I had an aisle and a window seat - and hardly any wait for the meal cart. For lunch I enjoyed smoked salmon, four cheese tortellini and a chocolate ice cream cone. The inflight entertainment system offered not only a choice of movies but a choice of categories: comedies, classics, dramas, world cinema, Italian cinema. I stuck with the latter, watching three and a half films, including the odd yet endearing Happy Family. Just before landing we were served a hot focaccia sandwich and an almond cake. It almost made up for the fact that, for all but the last three days of my trip, Alitalia held my suitcase hostage.