miami tour

01/19/09 18:27

Saturday morning at 10 I knocked at our neighbors' door. (I've saved this for a few days because I didn't want to push down Bibi's beautiful hymn to Holland). This would be my first tour in Polish, and also my first tour with my new cap - a Christmas present from our French neighbors - that's stiched with a palm tree, sunglasses, and the words: "Tom Swick's Best Miami Tour."

Ryszard answered the door and invited me in to join his wife Magda and his mother Jola for paczki, the delicious Polish jelly doughnuts. (No two tours are ever the same.) I passed on the coffee, saying we'd get some in Little Havana.

Sailing down I-95 we listened to Car Talk. Ryszard, a mechanic, had never heard it before. Then, as soon as we exited into Little Havana I put on Buena Vista Social Club. We drove down to Jose Marti Park, stopping to pay our respects at the bust of the great Cuban hero and poet. They were all impressed to hear that he'd written the words to Guantanamera - which, happily, they knew (thus saving themselves from my rendition).

We passed parked trucks hung with tropical fruits and found the empty lot where the Orange Bowl once stood (and the new Marlins stadium - fingers crossed - will rise). Then we drove down Calle Ocho (skipping this time Elian's house) and parked in front of a cigar shop, where Ryszard took great interest in the young man carefully folding leaves. We strolled down to Dominos Park - more women playing than in the past - and then to the memorial to the Bay of Pigs ("Zatoka Swinia" Ryszard helped me out with the translation).
Then the obligatory pictures sitting on the roots of the ficus tree. And, on the way back to the car, cafecito Cubano.

Down Coral Way, past Books & Books, onto Columbus - a sunlit tunnel - and into the Biltmore Hotel to roam the lobby and gaze at the pool. They were bemused to hear that the two diving platforms now served as waterfalls because of the fear of litigation.

The Venetian Pool is undergoing renovation, so we just drove by, heading north to downtown - people were getting hungry - over the causeway (cruise ships gleaming) and into the world's greenest parking garage (7th and Collins). On the way to the roof I put on Sinatra, and was impressed when Magda sang along in the back.

Across the street in Puerto Sagua we found a table - directly under the Skull Sisters' three-dimensional painting of Old Havana - which soon filled with fish, pork, black beans, rice and plantains. Afterwards we walked to the beach - Jola dipping her hand in the ocean - and up Ocean Drive, where a tour of Versace's house, we were told, was only $50 a person. Thanks, but nie.

Up at the Delano, Magda pointed out things I'd never noticed before - like the legs of the world's most uncomfortable chair (the gold one past the first set of curtains) that end in a tiny pair of high heels.

Frank seranaded us as we made a quick spin down Washington - with a peek at Espanola Way - and then back up through Lincoln Road (a stroll next time). On our way up Collins we found a scene from 19th century Poland: three bearded men in long black coats and wide fur hats.

I'd left the klezmer at home, so instead I slipped on Ewa Demarczyk, who carried us all the way back to Ft. Lauderdale.

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